Well I guess we’ve fallen off the blogging wagon for a while, so what goes up here now might be a bit random and out of order, but I don’t think that will make much difference. We’ve been travelling for almost 5 months now, which is a loooong time. We’re actually almost completely finished which is simultaneously a scary and welcome thought. So hopefully I can get some of the highlights up on here as much to help us remember as to share it with the ever expanding readership.
One of the biggest focuses for us on this whole trip has been trying to plan getting onto the Gibbon Experience. I have to say that looking back over everything we’ve done since the first day, it has been the hardest thing to organise by far. Contact with the people is difficult, it’s in the middle of nowhere, it takes at least 4 days to get into and out of on either side of the gibbon trip itself, it’s expensive, often booked out, and you have to pay with the devil's own online payment system, which of course won’t work, so you’ll have to tell them you’ll pay in cash when you arrive and hope they hold your place. Everything after our Intrepid trip (which was great, by the way) revolved around these three days.
It’s certainly not a comfort trip – you stay in tree houses about 20 metres off the ground. That sounds great until you start running into travellers who have been and tell you about the giant spiders, rats, and last but definitely not least, the bees’ nest under the toilet. It’s really hot during the day and you get very sweaty and dusty from hiking all over the place. Twenty-five percent of our group had dreadlocks. I hope you’re starting to get the idea of what kind of trip this is.
So it’s lucky it was a great experience. The idea of the trip is to take you into the jungle hills of Bokeo Province, Laos (which is supposedly prime Malaria habitat) and spend time in the tree tops surrounded by nothing but nature. Black gibbons live here, hence the name of the trip, and you can hear them every morning around 6am calling out through the forest. If you’re lucky, you can get to see them during an insane sprint over uneven ground with a crazy Lao guide. We weren’t lucky, so the second morning we decided to be a bit more calm and watch from our private tree house. We still didn’t see any, but it was nice to sit there and listen to them.
The other component of the trip is that moving around the reserve is done by a combination of hiking and zip lining (ie flying foxes). The zip lines can be over a hundred metres from the valley floor and several hundred metres long. Before arriving, but after booking, we read stories of people who were unable to jump from the platforms, which made us a bit nervous. I’m definitely not good with heights, but I can say that for the most part it was fine. Some bits were a bit hairy, but I never felt in danger, just very cautious while hanging over the canopy so high up.
The zip lining is lots of fun, as well as a bit scary. The feeling of pushing off your starting place is exhilarating, as well as relieving, as usually the take off is the worst part. There was an observation platform in a huge tree about 50 metres off the ground which was a half way point between two long and very high zip lines. This was one of the more nerve wracking parts, as you’re really high up, the platform is very narrow, and you have to unhook yourself from the incoming line and clip onto the outgoing one. You should keep your safety clip in the middle while moving your rollers from incoming to outgoing. At one point I got the order of operations wrong and was temporarily completely unattached to the tree. That was not a good thing to do, but hey I’m here now! I also knocked my glasses off into the canopy below when pulling myself in after not reaching the end of a cable. Luckily Daphne found them for me.
Tree house 1 had a log book with a list of fastest times around a section of three zip lines called “The Golden Triangle”. These cables were really fun, and you had to actually transit through the first tree house, literally jumping off out of the middle of their home in order to head towards our place – tree house 2.
Our tree house was the honeymoon suite, built for only two people. It was a pretty nice place, once we negotiated a truce with the swarm of bees that invaded the showering platform on the first afternoon. Without going into too much detail, the toilet here is open straight to the trees below. It’s also open straight to the bees below. They like to come up. In numbers. At bad times. At least there were no rats or spiders. Apparently the rats like to nest in the thatched roofs of the tree houses, but ours has a slightly less romantic green cast iron roof which the rats don’t like. Other houses had rats nibbling through shoes and bags, so I’m happy with our roof.
Our bathroom was communal. Not that everyone could use it, but everyone could see it. We were right near the start of a major cable back to tree house 1, and the paths around this point had a pretty good view of whoever happened to be using the shower or toilet. For those that couldn’t see everything from where they were standing, they could still marvel at the fluids dripping from the tree house. This was a popular spot for the guides to hang out and talk and eat our stolen fruit.
Getting into and out of our tree house was done via two cables. The cables are all one direction only, which sounded weird at first, but if you ask yourself how you can gain altitude on a free falling cable, it makes sense. So you always have to climb up somewhere so you can take a cable across and down. The cable out of our house was a bit dodgy at the start. There wasn’t much room to get yourself set, and a tree right where you wanted to stand. To take off, you have to walk forward while attached to the cable till the gap between cable and ground increases enough to make the cable start taking your weight. This point was about 5mm from the edge of our take off platform. I’ll post a video of Daph leaving our tree house for the last time.
On the second day we took a long hike out to see tree house 5, which is where people doing the more active style of trip stay on the first night. It’s a really nice tree house suspended high in the air, looking over the valley. It also has a massive swarm of bees in it and you have to take a bit of a drop off the step when you take the exit cable.
Food was brought to us by a guide who would zip line in like a maniac, so hard that our tree would actually be rocking. It wasn’t too bad – rice and various dishes, mostly vegetable based. They would usually grab something from our rat proof food storage bin while they were there, and very often while we were out. Our supply of peanut candy seemed to dwindle very quickly. After dinner, Daph and I would light the candles and sit around playing cards or scrabble, listening to the sounds of the jungle.
We really did have a great time, it’s something completely different. It does take a lot of effort and patience, so be forewarned!
So, let me try putting some photos and videos on this post.
Tree house 1
These are a couple of videos I plucked off youtube that show things pretty well.
This cable runs from just under our tree house to the observation platform. The person doesn’t quite make it to the end, but there’s a crash pad there on the tree because normally you do.
This is the long run in to tree house 5. I think it’s the longest cable we did, about 400m or so long.
Well these videos show it pretty well. We have a couple which are giving me grief right now, so I might try to get them onto youtube when I feel less frustrated with the whole thing. Not helpful when my little Canon takes a 2 minute video and turns it into 150MB. Uploading that in Laos will take a few days.
We had a great time, it was certainly unique!
No comments:
Post a Comment